Kiev (or more correctly Kyiv), the capital of Ukraine, stands among the hills overlooking the Dnepr River in the north central section of the country. The ancient city of Kievan Rus was a center of trade between the Baltic and the Mediterranean until it was destroyed by Mongols in 1240. Though modern Kyiv offers all of the amenities of a large city, less than half of its acreage has been urbanized, leaving more than 100 square miles of verdant parks, fields and forests. Left of the river is the newer commercial center, built after World War II, but most visitors flock to the right bank for the old city’s history and architecture, including castles, churches and ancient fortifications. The Cathedral of St. Sophia features renowned 11th-century frescoes and mosaics, and the Monastery of the Caves features two cathedrals as well as world-famous catacombs and museum collections. Cultural opportunities abound in Kyiv, with 32 museums, 33 theatres and a variety of art exhibitions throughout the year. You can click here to view hotels available in Kyiv.

Alcohol

You will notice that beer (pivo) is not really popular with women, but some men will enjoy various brands marked mitsne meaning “strong” with alcohol contents of around 7%. While Ukraine does not have the history of beer making that Germany or Belgium boast of, it is still a popular drink and developing craft. There are several major beer brewing companies in Ukraine: Obolon, Slavutich, Chernigivsky, and L’vivskiy. The major producers have been introducing various products in the last few years, labeling them “premium,” “light,” “ice,” or a number of other variations of usual lager beers. More recently, unfiltered, dark, and “red” beers have made their appearance, and a few pubs around town brew their own ales in-house. Bitters and stouts have not come on the scene yet, but it may only be a matter of time. Those preferring foreign brands can find their favorites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. But guests should beware offers of homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. And whether it’s Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A modest ‘cheers’ (budmo) will do for a foreigner.

Ukrainian cuisine

Ukrainian dishes show a sophisticated simplicity based on pleasing combinations of fresh, pickled, and smoked ingredients. Food is neither highly spiced nor bland, but skillfully seasoned to perfection. Bread, is of course the mainstay of the Ukrainian diet. It is such a central part of the diet here that there is a custom to give honored guests and departing or arriving travelers the gift of a loaf of bread and salt. Another staple of Ukrainian diet is kasha or what would be called “mush” in America and “porridge” in Britain. Borshch is certainly the national dish of Ukraine, even making its appearance on the menus of Chinese and Italian restaurants in Kyiv. The beet-based soup can contain as many as 20 different ingredients, depending on the season, region, and of course, personal preference of the cook. It can be meatless or prepared from a rich meat stock and contain either beef or smoked pork. The availability of ingredients for traditional cooking are often dependent on the season, so most varieties of vegetables sometimes make their appearance in certain dishes in their pickled form. Salads are very common, but rather than being lettuce-based, combinations of fresh, cooked, and preserved vegetables may be mixed with meat, cheese, or fish. Varenyky are dumplings made from boiled or fried dough, resembling ravioli without red sauce. They can be filled with meat, potatoes, cabbage, and sometimes mushrooms for as an entrée, or sour cherries or sweetened cottage cheese and raisins as a dessert. Any kind can be accompanied by butter or sour crcme. There are many different kinds of pastries and cakes, usually less sweet than they are made outside of continental Europe. A tort Kyivskiy is a local specialty, made of layers of crumbly raised wafers, hazelnuts, and it even comes in its own special green box. For a uniquely Ukrainian drink, try kvas, a slightly sweet non-alcoholic beverage with a wheat-like taste sold from giant tanks on wheels in the summer throughout the city.

USEFUL PLACES

Bars & Restaurants

Atlanta: Cool bar with live music and great service (but notice that the waitresses are wearing maps of New York and not Atlanta!). 56 Red Army Street (Chervonarmiyska) 220-0091. Open from 8:00 am to 2:00 am.
Arizona: Classical American breakfast with great American-Mexican food Has pool tables and darts too. 25 Naberezhno-Khreschatytska 416-24-38
Black and Orange: If you want to take a girl or some friends to a reasonably prices cafe and still have fantastic food in a cool atmosphere, this is the plase. You can get in and out for $5.00 to $10.00 per person. 29a Saksahanskoho. 416-35-67. Open 10:00 am until the last customer.
Deja Vue: Has a wild interior that includes antique Harley Davidson, Indian and other motorcycles, as well as ejector seats from Soviet planes and propellers hanging from the ceiling. Live Jazz music playing every night and has a menu with dishes from Chinese to American. 30 B. Khmelnytskoho Street 235-9802.
The Golden Gate Pub: The pub serves award winning beer and the best "Pub Grub" in Kiev with big portions at reasonable prices. The "Shannon" lounge bar has two pool tables and a darts board while the "Bothy" public bar hosts live music on Fridays and Saturdays from 9:00 pm and on Sunday evening from 8:00 pm shows on large projection screens. 40/2 Vladimirskaya Street. (Across from Golden Gate Metro) 235-5188.
Hot Mana's: A delivery service that will deliver to any taste. Delivery is usually hot and in about 45 minutes. 251-2141.
O'Brien's Irish Pub: "The first and only Irish pub in Kiev". This is one of the bars where the local foreign residents hang out in. The food and service is fantastic. There will be dozens of Americans, British and Irish. Opens at 8:00pm. 17a Mykhailivska 229-15-84.
Patio Pizza: Has a large selection of great Italian food in an authentic Italian atmosphere. 235-44-46 5a Bessarabskaya Square 235-44-46. Open noon until midnight.
Pechera: This is on of the most unique restaurants in Kiev - the interior is a cave and the waitresses are dressed as cave women. 10a Tarassivska Street 244-3372. Look for the "Easter Island" columns.
Taras: For those of you who want the Ukrainian experience this is the place. This restaurant is in Taras Shevchenko park and looks like a village home. The interior is traditional Ukrainian and so is the food. The prices are very reasonable, the service is good and if you want local food come here. 235-2132.
Wagon Restaurant: The restaurant is made up of train wagons and platforms including a turn of the century British wagon, but the Tsar Nicolas wagon is only for parties. The locals tend to like the cowboy wagon. 52 Red Army Street. 227-0490.

Nightlife

Wenzel: The newest Most exciting venue in town, with good music Beers Wines and the Atmosphere is the best ive come accross in Kiev (Erics new Club) 66. Kranoeminskya Street. Tele 278 25 20 www.wenzel.kiev.ua

Dockers ABC:
Khreshatyk 15, LG Passage
The old Mojo club got replaced by Dockers ABC - good news for those of us who are big fans of Dockers but don't have wheels..!

Club 112: Mandarin Plaaza, 7:00 pm to 6:00 am
Freedom: This is a luxury entertainment complex, modern and huge. Cover charge can be as high as $20.00. 134 Frunze Street Telephone 468-4068. Open 6:00 pm to 6:00 am. Also has a casino, Strip Club and VIP rooms.
Moda Bar: Built inside a ship and you dance on a floor looking upon a Plexiglas deck where bands play and models strut by. There is no cover and it is very safe but expensive. Nab. Kreschatyska Street Pier number 6. 416-7388.
Opium Dance Club: A favorite of Ukrainians who can afford to go. High quality, safe but expensive. Cover charge is $10.00 to $20.00. 1 Saksahanskoho Street 205-5393 Open Thursday through Saturday.
River Palace: A casino, restaurant and disco on a ship. Naberezhne Shosse 490-6695 3:00 pm to 7:00 am.
Shooters: Exciting Bar & Restaurant and the newest addition to the "Happy Days" Group of Companies. 22 Moskovskaya. Open 24/7.

Medical Centres

Medical services in the Ukraine are not like they are in the west and whilst conditions are fair in Kiev, in the provincial towns they can be dangerous. The following private companies offer services more used to by Westerners:
American Medical Centers: Open: 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Regular Office Hours: Monday, Wednesday and Friday 8:00 am to 6:00 pm, Tuesday and Thursday 8:00 am to 8:00 pm, Saturdays from 9:00 am to 1:00 pm and Sundays by appointment. Phone: +38 (044) 490-7600 Emergency Phone: +38 (044) 490-7600. 1, Berdychivska Street, 04116 Kyiv.
Center of European Medicine: 18-a Shovkovychna Street Number 2 253-8219. Weekdays 8:00 am to 8:00 pm. Saturday 9:00 am to 2 pm.